Day 2: Wauchope to Scone
The section of the Oxley Highway that runs from Wauchope to Walcha is rated by many as the best motorcycle road in Australia. I’m not sure I agree, but it’s still a fabulous ride. As you pass the Wauchope town boundary you are immediately into a delightfully winding road that passes through the bush until it emerges onto Long Flat. Long Flat is more undulating than flat, but it’s open farm land and smooth, fast road.
Then you start to climb and there is a sign warning you of 44 kms of winding road. That’s 8 kms more than the sign photographed by AussieFlyer (see here), but I’ve no photographic evidence. This time. The speed limit drops to 80 kph and you are into the bush, climbing the Great Dividing Range. The road surface is excellent, the corners great and the challenge for a medium grade rider like me is to stay as near to 80 kph as you can all the way to Gingers Creek.
Before we get to Gingers Creek, though, a word on the speed limit. Traffic authorities in Australia are convinced the only way to reduce the road toll is to reduce the speed limits. While they may be right, I’m not completely sure how much evidence there is that it’s actually working. The decision to reduce the speed limit on 44 kms of the Oxley Highway that winds up the mountain side has been hotly contested and the subject of great criticism by many a motor cyclist and local. I don’t know what to think. While I’m not sure I can see the need for it—roads dictate the speed at which intelligent people will drive or ride them—it’s hard for me to sustain a much higher speed for much of the road. I’m also not sure I want to be confronted by people blasting out of a corner at much higher speed.
The riders are unhappy and, I’m sure, certain amongst them will continue to blast up the road at the best speed they can manage, scaring the bejasus out of the rest of us for the time they retain their licence. And, I must confess, above Gingers Creek the road starts to open up a bit and the 80 kph speed limit feels a little restrictive, even to me.
Gingers Creek is the place where you stop for a cup of coffee and, this day anyway, breakfast. You can theoretically buy fuel there, but the supply is not guaranteed so it’s wise not to count on it. I had the place pretty much to myself and enjoyed the peace, the birds and a plate of eggs and bacon before moving on.
Alone at Gingers Creek
Breakfast
Just up the road a tree had fallen blocking half the road. There was no phone reception so I took a photo with my phone to get a GPS fix on the place then kept riding till reception returned when I pulled over and rang the traffic authority to tell them. They already knew, but I still had a virtuous feeling from making the effort.
That tree
From the end of the 44 km stretch, the road straightens and the speed limit is lifted to 100 kph then 110 kph for the run across the plain to Walcha. I refuelled and then spent an hour or more trying to find a clip for the strap that holds my bag onto the bike that I’d broken when I got fuel. I found one at a saddlery run by a bloke who had an old 650 4-cylinder Kawasaki. He’d been out for a ride when I first called which was why I had to wait around.
Why I did this, I can’t explain. I had a perfectly adequate alternative. I suppose there’s some sort of challenge in there that I can’t resist.
Parked for Coffee at the Royal Hotel in Walcha. I got away with it.
Luckily, I think, I recalled in the nick of time that Australia’s premier country music festival was on in Tamworth. I’d been planning to ride there on my way to Dungowan and Nundle—a road listed as one of the top 10 in NSW. The trip down Thunderbolts Way to the turn off to Dungowan is a good ride anyway, and the ride from that turn off to Dungown through the Port Stevens Cutting is also great.
The road from Dungowan to Nundle was a pleasant ride, but I was down off the mountain and it was getting very hot when I stopped for lunch.
Chaffey Dam on the way to Nundle. It looked and felt very dry.
After lunch the weather became more and more foreboding and when I stopped for fuel in Scone, the weather radar showed a storm closing in and I decided to stay dry.
Hydrating while deciding whether or not to run the gauntlet of the rain
I put up at the recently renovated Thoroughbred Hotel to escape a drenching. It fizzed before it got there and very little rain fell, but I was tired and glad to be off the bike.
Lamb cutlets at the Thoroughbred Hotel, Scone
I fell asleep before the end of the women’s final at the Australian Open. If I ever found out who won, I’ve since forgotten.