The Cormanus Chronicles: January 2019

The Cat's Away — Day 6

Walwa to Bright


31 January 2019

Master Map

It promised to be hot again and I was full of good intentions about getting on the road early. Like so many good intentions, they didn't amount to much and it was around 0930 when I got under way.

Walwa is on the southern bank of the Murray River which divides New South Wales and Victoria. I decided to pop over to Jingelic on the NSW side to check out a campground. I found a good one on the banks of the river next door to the pub.

The CB inspects the Murray River.

It's a pretty ride west from Walwa along the banks of the Murray until you come to the man-made Lake Hume. The next couple of photos show it to be a bit short of water.

Two letterboxes I found at the northern end of the Omeo Valley Highway

Hiding in the shade at Mitta Mitta. It was getting very hot by then

This abandoned church at Granite Flat just south of Mitta Mitta was built from locally made bricks in 1875. For a time during the Australian Gold Rush, Granite Flat boasted about 500 miners. The last settler left the area in 1919. The last service held in the church was the funeral of one James Walsh in 1936.

How could a motorcyclist not love a sign like this? What makes it even better is that it's slightly misleading. It's around 100 kms from Mitta Mitta to Omeo and very little of it is straight.

Gotta love a good letterbox

For the first time riding this road, I stopped at Anglers Rest for water and something to eat. It was hot. As I finished lunch, these two bikes arrived. The bloke on the Triumph didn't want to talk to me; but I had a pleasant enough chat with the other bloke. He had a neat ornament on the front mudguard of the Midnight Special. I think they were on the way to a big Triumph rally.

It was still hot when I got back on the bike, but I noticed it getting cooler and cooler as I rode the 30 kms to Omeo. So much so that I stopped, put two layers in my jacket and donned heavier gloves. The weather app told me the temperature had dropped at least 15ÂșC.

It didn't rain, but it was cool and occasionally misty. I stopped for this photo which marked 100,000 kms that I had ridden on this bike. When I bought it, I had no idea I would spend as much time on it as I have; let alone that I'd ride it for 100,000 kms. It is thanks in no small measure to the CB1100 forum and the accident of accepting an invitation from Pterodactyl that it has happened.

Above: Misty conditions and some attractive alpine bush for the milestone photo opportunity

Just west of the Mt Hotham township (largely deserted in summer), is this high point on the road

Looking east from The Cross

If you follow the link to the full-size version of the following image, you will see the scar of the road I followed on the other (western) side of the valley. It is a reasonable ride to that point as the road follows the ridge to the left in this photo.

This photo shows the view from the western side of the valley looking back to where I took the one above.

Soon after that, having stopped to strip out the thermal layers to deal with the rising temperatures, I set up my tent beside a stream in the Bright Caravan Park.

To my delight, I walked out the back entrance to the park and discovered the local brewery. The woman behind the bar apologised and said the only food available was pizza or chips (fries to those in the US) as the kitchen staff were having a golf day to thank them for the efforts over the holiday season. The beer was welcome and the pizza surprisingly good.

The Cat's Away — Day 5

Tarago to Walwa


30 January 2019

Master Map

Overnight I'd done some emailing and arranged to visit friends in Melbourne two days hence. I had a rough plan to get there which involved passing through Canberra to visit a virtual reality "Antarctica Experience". My booking allowed me time to take a ride to the Mt Stromlo Observatory for a look. I then planned to get as far through the mountains as time would allow so that I'd be two reasonable days ride from Melbourne.

In the yard at the Loaded Dog ready to roll

The Australian Capital Territory is surrounded by wind farms. I find the huge mills strangely attractive.

Lake Burley Griffin with the National Library in the background

Filling in time with a side trip to the west of Canberra

The Cotter Dam west of Canberra. Harrison Ford's fate would have been quite different had he jumped from this one.

The virtual reality tour of Antarctica was interesting, partly because it was the first VR experience I've had. It was also a pleasant hour and a bit in air conditioning.

Leaving Canberra, I rode to Cooma along a not very exciting road, all the while watching the build up of the afternoon's entertainment.

In Cooma, I ate, hydrated (it was hot again) and then made my way into the mountains.

I stopped at the Sawyers Hill Rest Hut, but I can't remember why.

The Kosciuszko National Park is infested with brumbies (wild horses). They're not native to Australia and cause immense damage. To preserve the natural habitat, they should shoot the lot, but a romantic attachment to horses and a national attachment to the Banjo Patterson poem The Man from Snowy River makes it impossible. The plague of horses in the National Park is quietly being overtaken by a plague of deer, but that's another story.

Signs warn motorists to look out for brumbies.

Blow me down if I didn't get around the next corner and meet this bloke and the 4 or 5 brumbies he was looking out for. First time I've met any.

I stopped to take the photo and, as it was clear he was not going to move, rode quietly past his head. We maintained eye contact until I was safely past. I gave thanks for the gentle burble of the OEM exhaust system wondering what he might have felt about loud pipes.

In winter this would be covered in snow

The Snowy Mountains hydro-electric scheme is an important source of electricity for mainland Australia. It's currently being expanded to try to reduce the reliance on coal-fired generation. This is the entrance to one of the underground generation stations.

Shortly after leaving the power station, nature delivered a few drops of rain, fulfilling the promise of the earlier build up. It looked as if it would be a light shower, which was not totally unwelcome, so I left my wets off. Bad call. By the time I reached O'Hares Rest Area, I was thoroughly soaked.

Luckily it was a pretty place for a rest.

To digress for a moment, the grammarians amongst you will have noticed the oddity of O'Hares Rest Area. It should be O'Hare's Rest Area, but the correct use of the simple apostrophe has defeated authorities in this country to the point where it's been decreed it will not be used in its possessive sense in public nomenclature. Having, as I do, an apostrophe in my surname, it irritates the crap out of me.

"Out came the sun and dried up all the rain"

By the time I got to the lookout with a view of the Snowy Mountains, I was hot again and largely dry.

A notice at a lookout about Australia's first major civil aviation incident

The Snowy Mountains

One dousing a day is enough, and I was happy to have skipped this one. I stopped for the day at the Walwa Hotel. It did rain, but not much.